Highlights from New York Fashion Week Fall-Winter 2024

As New York Fashion Week drew to a close on February 14, designers across Manhattan and Brooklyn showcased enticing reinterpretations of familiar fashion codes. From innovative protective wear to gothic romance, the runway was brimming with creativity and style.

At the neoclassical Williamsburgh Savings Bank, Peter Do kicked off the official show calendar on February 8 with a bold reimagining of “protective” fashion for his second showing at Helmut Lang. Models strutted in silk bubble wrap trousers, knit balaclavas paired with smart suiting, and weathered sand-colored denim, all conveying a sense of soft armor against the chaos of the world.

Thom Browne, the designer and current CFDA chairman, made a tentpole return to New York Fashion Week, closing the event on Valentine’s Day with a collection inspired by gothic horror and Edgar Allan Poe’s “The Raven.” Against a backdrop of subtly-fragrant white ash powder resembling snow, models, described as a “school of ravens,” traversed the runway. Browne’s monochromatic collection deconstructed traditional black tie tailoring with layering and cinched proportions, juxtaposing grungy elements with formal corsetry and floral accents, all rendered in rich, slick textures.

Other designers offered their own unique takes on American dress codes. Tommy Hilfiger revisited prep classics with boxy tweed coats and varsity jackets, while Willy Chavarria brought a bold vision of American power dressing to the runway with exaggerated shoulders and sharp lapels juxtaposed with ruffles and sculptural florals, infused with Chicano-influenced flair.

Prabal Gurung and Brandon Maxwell drew inspiration from personal experiences and emotional journeys, translating grief and metamorphosis into dreamlike collections rich in color and texture.

In a highly anticipated show, Paris-based designer Ludovic de Saint Sernin made his New York debut with a collection inspired by the taboo photographs of Robert Mapplethorpe, featuring applique florals, crystal mesh gowns, and leather bondage styles that challenged traditional gender norms.

From Carolina Herrera’s celebration of strong, resilient women to Michael Kors’ modernized classics and Gabriela Hearst’s homage to surrealist painter Leonora Carrington, each designer brought their own unique perspective and creativity to the runway, ensuring that New York Fashion Week Fall-Winter 2024 will be remembered as a showcase of innovation and artistry.