As “Jawbreaker” commemorates its 25th anniversary on February 19, it remains a worthy successor to the dark comedy of “Heathers,” even if its central plot revolves around an accidental murder. The film’s costumes, serving as indicators of character status and loyalties, continue to define iconic ’90s teen fashion.
Rebecca Gayheart’s character Julie laments in the cult classic “Jawbreaker,” “A makeover can’t hide the truth.” However, the candy-colored fashion of the film effectively conceals the darkness at its core. Following the aftermath of a birthday prank gone awry, which leads to the death of Liz Purr by a jawbreaker, the film tracks the journey of “the Flawless Four” — high school Queen Bee Courtney Shane (Rose McGowan) and her cohorts Marcie Fox (Julie Benz) and Julie Freeman (Gayheart).
“We wanted it to be sweet and sugary-looking,” explained the movie’s costume designer Vikki Barrett. “And then it takes a turn. We tried not to use any dark or moody colors at all, and keep it really light, festive and fun, so that the element of darkness would be a surprise.”
Barrett, who previously worked on stylish ’90s teen movies like “Clueless” and “Romy & Michele’s High School Reunion,” expressed surprise at how the fashions of “Jawbreaker” have endured over 25 years. The iconic hallway scene, featuring Courtney, Julie, and Marcie strutting in tight pencil skirts, “uncovered bosoms,” and clutch purses, serves as both an influence for similar scenes in subsequent films like “Mean Girls” and a nostalgic nod to classics like “Grease.”
The film’s influence extends beyond its initial release, with echoes found in shows like “Gossip Girl,” “Euphoria,” and “Revenge.”
Retro motifs, combined with forward-thinking fashion, permeate “Jawbreaker.” Barrett crafted most of the costumes herself, incorporating details like exposed seams in stockings to achieve the desired look, which wasn’t readily available in stores at the time.
Each character in “Jawbreaker” is associated with a distinct color palette. Courtney, symbolizing her regal status, is often seen in ice blue, while Marcie is clad in lighter shades of green, reflecting jealousy. Julie’s transition from dark blue pleather to denim after leaving the Flawless Four signifies her departure from conformity.
The transformative makeover sequence, where Courtney remakes Fern Mayo (Judy Greer) into “Vylette,” embodies the film’s themes. Barrett explained how the character’s shift from a cotton candy hue to a putrid hot pink symbolizes her evolution into a powerful force, distinct from her creator.
While initially meant to be over-the-top and disturbing, the fashion in “Jawbreaker” has since become aspirational, enduring as a hallmark of ’90s teen style even 25 years later.