French designer Ludovic de Saint Sernin made his highly anticipated debut at New York Fashion Week on Sunday night, captivating audiences with his bold and sensual gender-neutral designs. Known for his daring and provocative aesthetic, de Saint Sernin drew inspiration from the iconic black-and-white photographs of Robert Mapplethorpe, infusing his collection with crystal mesh gowns, BDSM-inspired leather masks, and rear-cleavage pants. Titled “X,” after Mapplethorpe’s most controversial portfolio of work, the show explored themes of eroticism and identity against the backdrop of the AIDS crisis.
“Robert has always been a huge inspiration to me — in discovering his work, I discovered myself,” de Saint Sernin shared backstage.
In a fashion landscape dominated by “naked” dresses and pantless silhouettes, de Saint Sernin’s collection stood out for its unabashed sensuality and gender fluidity. His designs, which have been worn by celebrities like Kim Kardashian and Kim Petras, celebrate the diverse expressions of sexuality, inviting individuals to explore their feminine and masculine sides with confidence.
The debut marked a new chapter for de Saint Sernin as he showcased his polished and matured aesthetic to a global audience. Collaborating with the late artist’s foundation, the designer paid homage to New York City’s vibrant queer culture, celebrating the city as a beacon of creativity and self-expression.
Moving forward, de Saint Sernin aims to expand his brand’s reach on a global scale, championing inclusivity and freedom of expression in luxury fashion.